St. Barts Travel Information

Introduction

Dreams of Caribbean getaways usually start at the first sign of ice on the windshield of your car. As you stand there scraping it away, you realize there will be many days like this in the months ahead. The thought of a winter respite starts to take hold.
The islands, whether U.S., British or Dutch, offer sunny skies, sandy beaches, active sports, good shops and resort hotels. Unless you have a personal favorite based on past experience, any island will do as long as the airfares and hotel rates are manageable. Only a few islands, such as Jamaica, Puerto Rico and Trinidad, have individual cultures that make them appealing. Add St. Barts to that short list. This is a French island that marches to its own beat and those in the know want to keep it that way.

No splashy advertisement campaigns lure visitors to St. Barts. Instead, people learn about its charm by muted word of mouth. And even that's done subtly, as the people who've vacationed here for years don't want to share their tropical secret. They bemoan the fact that tourism on the island has increased dramatically. Invariably mentioned in the traditional Caribbean guidebooks which touch on every island, and in the literature distributed by the French West Indies Tourist Offices, are the Rockefellers, Rothschilds and Fords, all of whom own villas on St. Barts. It's little wonder that St. Barts is often referred to as 'St. Tropez in the Caribbean.' These are not big inducements to vacation here, particularly if you've been to St. Tropez lately.

Growth on the island must be kept in perspective. St. Barts today is what St. Tropez was like before Bardot 'discovered' it. It's true that new hotels and villa communities have been built, but none is high-rise, none has even 100 rooms, and all are locally owned and managed. All are at the deluxe end of the price spectrum. Although cruise ships now anchor in Gustavia's harbor, there is never more than one a day; the number of arrivals is strictly limited. The island is a duty-free port with wonderful boutiques which, though limited in number, offer a wide variety of merchandise. Still the shops close precisely at noon, not to reopen until 2:30 pm, while the staff enjoys a leisurely lunch. They don't open at all on Sundays.

St. Barts has all the things that have traditionally drawn people to the Caribbean. It has glorious beaches - over 20 of them. The windier part of the island offers great surfing, windsurfing and sailing, while the calmer waters allow for swimming, snorkeling and waterskiing. All these activities - as well as organized scuba trips and day sails - are part of the scene. Additionally, St. Barts has the best restaurants in the Caribbean (French St. Martin will dispute this). French-trained chefs have added Creole, Thai, Spanish and even cheeseburgers to their traditional French dishes. There are over 50 restaurants to choose from on this small island.

Will you pay a premium to vacation here? Certainly, because you are paying for more than secluded beaches, small posh hotels and great restaurants. You are paying for the special quality of this unique getaway. Only you can decide if it's worth it.
The Island's Name

The name of the island is Saint Barthélemy. It is referred to by traditional islanders as St. Barth, and by more contemporary islanders as St. Bart or St. Barts.

Transportation

By Air

There are no non-stop flights from the U.S., Canada and Europe to St. Barts. Most North American visitors fly directly to Princess Juliana Airport on Sint Maarten, where several commuter lines make the 15-minute flight. Tiny Gustav III Airport can handle only 20-seater 'puddle jumpers.' The plane heads right at a mountain (called La Tourmente), clears it by an inch, and then drops steeply to the runway. It's not for the squeamish. The landing strip, the shortest in the Caribbean, ends at the sea.

An alternative is to fly into Puerto Rico or St. Thomas and connect with a commuter plane there. European carriers fly to Guadeloupe, where passengers connect to the commuter lines. If you are staying on the French side of St. Martin, you can take a commuter plane from L'Espérance Airport near Marigot.

The main U.S. carrier to Sint Maarten is American Airlines (% 800-433-7300). They offer daily flights from Miami or via Puerto Rico. Continental Airlines is also a good choice.

TIP
Reserve your commuter airline flight at the same time as you make your long-distance reservation. It is imperative to re-confirm your return flight on these commuter lines.

There are commuter flights virtually every hour from 7 am till 5:30 pm (later in summer). The commuter airlines serving St. Barts are:
Windward Islands Airways % 590-27-61-01
Air St. Barthelemy % 590-27-71-90
Air St. Thomas % 590-27-71-76
Air Guadeloupe % 590-27-61-90

By Boat

Those uncomfortable on small planes have a delightful alternative. Ferries and catamarans connect Sint Maarten/St. Martin with St. Barts daily. The boats are good-sized and modern. It is a lovely ride, taking about one hour from Philipsburg (Dutch) and a half-hour longer from Marigot (French).

The most popular boats are: Gustavia Express, % 590-27-77-24, which has daily crossings leaving from both the Dutch and French sides. The return boat stops in Philipsburg on the way to Marigot. The Dauphin II (% 590-27-84-38) and St. Barts Express (% 590-27-77-24) also make the crossing. The White Octopus is a catamaran that runs a one-day excursion to St. Barts. It leaves from Bobby's Marina in Philipsburg early in the morning and returns in the afternoon (% 599-52-31-70).

Area Information

Entry Requirements

U.S. and Canadian citizens need a valid passport or a birth certificate and a photo I.D. French and EU citizens need a national identity card. All passengers need a return or on-going ticket.

U.S. Customs

Items purchased in St. Barts fall under the standard $600 duty-free allowance per person. Handicrafts or works of art made on the island are not subject to duty.

Canadian Customs

Canadian citizens can return with $500 Canadian worth of merchandise if they have been out of the country for seven days.

Departure Tax

There is a departure tax of US $12 when flying from Princess Juliana Airport to St. Barts. A $5 tax is charged to those leaving by boat.

Telephones

The area code for St. Barts is 590. If you are calling while on the island, drop the area code and dial only the six-digit phone number.

Transportation

From the Airport

Most hotels offer a free airport shuttle service. Notify them of your flight times and they will meet you there. This is also true for those arriving by boat.

All of the major international car rental companies have desks at the airport.
Taxis, which are unmetered, meet every flight. Fix the rate before leaving the airport and keep in mind that fares can quickly add up.

TIP
There is no public transportation on St. Barts. A few private buses operate, but their routes do not cover the entire island.

Car/Jeep Rentals

We urge you to rent a car for at least part of your stay. This will give you time to explore at your own pace and to return to those spots you enjoy most. Hotels, restaurants and beaches are scattered all over the island and you cannot walk from one to the other easily except in Gustavia. A valid driver's license and major credit card are required.

The most popular rented vehicle is a minimoke, a small, open, jeep-like vehicle that many young locals also drive. It sort of resembles a sideless moving box. The next most popular rental is a jeep. Both operate with stick shifts. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is not a must here.
International rental companies have airport desks. They include:
Avis % 590-27-71-52
Budget % 590-27-66-30
Hertz % 590-27-71-14
Europcar (National) % 590-27-74-34

TIP
Make reservations long in advance in high season.
There are many local agencies as well, several of which are associated with hotels. Inquire at the front desk to see if your hotel also rents cars.

These include:
Turbe % 590-27-71-42
Gumbs % 590-27-75-32
Chez Beranger % 590-27-89-00
(also rents cycles and scooters)

Motorbike Rentals

Motorcycles and scooters are very popular on the island. Rates are about $30 per day. Agencies include:
Saint Barts Motorbike % 590-27-67-89
Dennis Dufau % 590-27-54-83
Chez Beranger % 590-27-89-00

Taxis

Taxis are available but not very practical. Privately-owned, they are scarce on Sundays, holidays and after 8 pm. They do not have meters. There are taxi stands. In Gustavia, % 27-66-31 and in St. Jean, % 27-75-81. No tip is expected.

Gas Stations

There are only two gas stations on the island. The larger is near the airport in St. Jean. It closes at 5 pm each night and is closed all day Sunday. You can use a major credit card at the pump here. The smaller station is in Lorient. It keeps the same hours and does not accept credit cards.

Area Information

St. Barts is an eight-square-mile island. It's 4,340 miles from Paris, 1,550 miles from New York and 20 miles from St. Martin. It is home to 6,000 permanent residents, most descended from the original Norman, Breton and Swedish settlers. Newcomers include French citizens who have emigrated to open hotels, restaurants and shops here. Many young French men and women spend a year or two working in the hotels, restaurants, shops and watersports centers.

There are lots of interesting attractions and historical sites on this tiny island. Each is small and can be explored in a short time. The picturesque towns, some with historical interest, can't help but be adjacent to one of the island's 20 beach strips - nothing is more than five minutes from the sea.

One main road covers the northern tier of the island, with smaller roads leading inland to villages and beaches on the less-developed southern shore.

Towns

We'll pinpoint the main towns here, but you'll find more detail about them and the beaches in the Sunup to Sundown section.

Gustavia

The capital, on the island's southwestern coast, is a picturesque town laid out around a beautiful harbor, which is usually filled with luxury yachts. It has a mini-mall, boutiques, fine restaurants and bars, historic churches and fort, and even a deluxe hotel. The historical Wall Museum is on La Pointe, the peninsula side of the harbor. There are residences in the higher elevations of the town. Key streets include: Quai de la Républic and Rue de Général de Gaulle (the two important commercial streets) and Rue du Centenaire, the street that connects the two harbor legs.

St. Jean

Located mid-island and on the northern shore, St. Jean is the second largest town and can almost be described as bustling. Tiny Gustav II Airport is here and there are several small shopping centers. St. Jean Beach is the longest and most popular beach on the island, so there are several hotels and restaurants on or near it. Lovely villas sit above the town on nearby hillsides.

Lorient

Even smaller, Lorient is at the junction of the main road and the road to the island's south shore. It has a school, a mini-market, one of the two gas stations on the island, and two interesting cemeteries. Lorient Beach is the island's best for surfing.

Corossol

On the coast, north of Gustavia, Corossol is a fishing village that has maintained the early traditions. You'll enjoy seeing the Creole houses (cases), the older women wearing large white bonnets and modest dress, and visiting the stores that sell the handwoven straw items made here.

Colombier

A tiny residential community on the island's northern fork, Colombier has both traditional and modern homes, lovely gardens and a school. The views from the outskirts of Colombier take in all the offshore islands as well as most of St. Barts. Although it has no beach, you can hike to lovely beach areas from here.

Attractions

La Grande Saline

La Grande Saline
The old salt flats used till the 1970s are now way stations for migrating birds.

Vitet

The highest mountain on St. Barts soars to 900 feet. The island astrologer owns a small inn here.

Area Information

Geography

The islands of the Lesser Antilles are like tiny blips in a sea of blue. St. Martin and Anguilla are the most northerly islands and St. Barts is 20 miles (32 km) to the south. St. Barts is also much smaller, covering only eight square miles (25 square km). It has an irregular coastline which creates scores of coves and bays, many of which are protected by coral reefs.

St. Barts does not have a single freshwater lake or river. Drinking water is collected in cisterns and saltwater is processed at the local desalinization plant. A rugged mountain range, which includes Vitet, the highest peak, forms the island's spine, creating stunning views.
All roads (paved only in the last 30 years) wind around and over the mountains. Narrow winding roads (also paved) lead from the main road to the coastline.

Temperatures are moderated by the trade winds, which cross the island from east to west. Carrying moisture from the Atlantic Ocean (the Atlantic meets the Caribbean off Turtle Island in Grand Cul de Sac), the winds meet resistance at the mountain range. As they rise, they drop their moisture in the form of rain, making the eastern portion of the island green, filled with lush tropical vegetation. This is the windward side (côte au vent in French). The western portion of the island gets far less rain and wind. Vegetation on the leeward side (côte sous le vent) is sparser, not as colorful, and includes cactus. The vast majority of the flowering plants and trees here have been planted and are tended by residents.

Although there is no specific rainy season, St. Barts is in the hurricane belt. In September 1995 Hurricane Luis caused great damage to the vegetation, beaches and buildings.

DID YOU KNOW?
Fortunately, a heavy rain a few days after Hurricane Luis washed much of the salt off the vegetation, allowing it to rejuvenate quickly. Although some beaches lost sand, others were enlarged.

Plant Life

On the windward (eastern) portion of the island, flowering plants grow wild by roadsides, in ravines and along hiking trails on the hills. You'll see pink, yellow and orange hibiscus, Mexican creepers, frangipani, bougainvillea, flamboyants, white lilies and even orchids. On the leeward (western) side you'll see less vegetation, but locals have done a magnificent job of planting and watering. As you explore the traditional towns of Colombier and Corossol you'll notice the flourishing gardens around the Creole houses.

Animal Life

There is no fresh water on St. Barts, so there are no indigenous animals. Mongoose and iguanas were introduced by settlers. Birds are the most interesting of the wildlife here. The brown pelican is so ubiquitous that it is one of the island's symbols. Watch it glide effortlessly above the sea and then plunge into the water at what seems like 100 mph to scoop up unsuspecting fish. You'll also see black frigate birds with white or red throats, kingfishers, herons, hummingbirds and tiny bananaquits.

In the waters around the island are spiny lobster, dorados, shark, yellowtail snappers, tuna, conch and whelks.

You're going on vacation. There's sea, sand and great food. Who cares about the island's history? Normally we would agree, but in the case of St. Barts, the island is so unusual that you'll definitely be curious. While you may not read this section before you leave home, you surely will after spending a day on the island. We promise to keep it short.

Discovered by Columbus on his second voyage (1493-1496), the island was named for his younger brother Bartholomew - St. Barthelemeo. Columbus moved on - with no fresh water and no people, the island was largely useless to him. Even the Carib Indians living on nearby islands stopped here only to fish.

Although the Pope gave the whole New World to Spain in 1494, the Spanish did not consider the tiny islands in this area of any importance and left them for France and Britain, who both established colonies on nearby St. Christopher (now St. Kitts). In 1634, Pierre d'Esnambuc (sponsored by the French on St. Kitts) landed on St. Barts and liked it. He set off for France to gather settlers. He returned to the area with about 500 people, mostly peasants from Normandy and Brittany. Since the majority of these people chose to stay on St. Kitts and others on Guadeloupe and Martinique, only 60 or so arrived on St. Barts in approximately 1648.
The governor of the French colonies, Longvilliers de Poincy was also a commander in the Knights of Malta. This order was founded during the Crusades to aid soldiers and pilgrims enroute to the Holy Land. As the Spanish became more prominent in the area, they menaced the small French colony. De Poincy sold St. Barts and the French side of St. Martin to the Knights, thereby gaining a protective force while he continued to govern.

Unfortunately, the Knights did not recognize the threat from the Carib Indians. The Indians massacred the entire colony, which made it more difficult to attract new settlers. Yet since it had an excellent harbor and a strategic position surrounded by British possessions, the governor of St. Kitts cajoled 100 hardy Huguenots from Normandy and Brittany to try again.
With no fresh water and little arable land, no plantations were established here and there was no need for slaves. Unlike the majority of islands in the West Indies, there are very few black people living on St. Barts. Those that do live here are descendants of workers from nearby islands recruited to labor in the shipyards.

St. Barts began to prosper because of its harbor. Pirates of all nationalities made the island their headquarters, bringing the treasures they had plundered from Spanish galleons, having their ships repaired and restocked. One well-known cutthroat, Montbars the Exterminator (is that a great name!) made St. Barts his home.
Montbars the Exterminator

As a boy the French-born Montbars had read of the cruelties of the Spanish as they conquered the New World. He vowed revenge and was so successful he earned the name 'Exterminator.' Montbars was lost at sea during a hurricane and never returned to excavate his loot. Lore has it buried near Anse de Gouverneur or Grande Saline on the south coast. Bring your shovels!

Although prospering, St. Barts was ceded by King Louis XVI to his friend King Gustaf III of Sweden in exchange for free-port rights in Gothenburg. In 1784, the Swedes, who had no other possessions in the New World, became rulers of St. Barts. They took their responsibility seriously. They laid out a grid of streets on both sides of the harbor, renaming the town (then called Carenage) for their King, Gustavia. They carved winding roads through the island, built a town hall, made the island a duty-free port (which it still is today) and constructed three forts. Forts Gustaf, Octave and Karl are still visible today, with Gustaf on the hill in town. Best of all, they did not impose their culture on the islanders, but rather permitted local traditions to continue.

The island boomed and by 1800 there were over 6,000 residents. Unfortunately, as neighboring islands expanded their port facilities, trade moved north, especially to the Danish Virgin Islands (now U.S.). Many St. Barthians left the island to form a community on St. Thomas. They called it Carenage and it still exists today.

Hurricanes and a huge fire in 1852 decimated Gustavia. It was not rebuilt. In 1967 only 400 people lived in Gustavia.
In 1878, after 92 years, the Swedes sold St. Barts back to France. It remains part of France today, with locals voting for the French President and Prime Minister. It is governed through Guadeloupe, but elects a local mayor and municipal council.

St. Barts remains an anachronism. Older residents cling to the centuries-old traditions of their native Breton, Norman and Swedish ancestors, while the younger are moving rapidly into the world of rock music, Sunday football games and cheeseburgers.

Attractions

Sunup To Sundown

Since St. Barts' weather is near- perfect year round, you'll spend many of your daylight hours on the beaches, either on a lounge chair working on your tan or enjoying watersports. But the island has over 20 distinct beaches and the coves and bays that house them are on all parts of the island. Virtually every town and village was established near a beach or marina, so you'll be sightseeing as you head to a new beach. Swimming beaches have thick white sand and calm waters. Several have coral reefs that even a beginner can snorkel over, while others are perfect for windsurfing, boardsurfing, spearfishing or shell-collecting.


Beach areas that do not have a hotel are undeveloped. There are no lounge chairs, umbrellas or food. Bring a blanket, find a seagrape tree and bring a picnic lunch. Most of the beach areas are easily accessed by car. You may have a short walk across the dunes from the parking lot. In just a few cases, the hike is a true hike, as in Colombier, and in other cases the access is by boat only. Often, these boat-accessed beaches are popular with local scuba operators.

TIP
All beaches are open to the public, even those that front a hotel. Non-hotel guests can rent watersports gear, eat at the hotel's restaurant, and use the pool for a fee.

Topless bathing is the norm on St. Barts, both on beaches and at poolside. Although nude bathing is officially illegal, nobody pays much attention to it and it is commonplace on isolated beaches on the island's rugged southern shore.

You can play tennis or squash, then go horseback riding or bicycling.

Your beach-hopping and island exploring will depend on what activities you enjoy most, but we'll start where everything starts on St. Barts, in Gustavia, the delightful capital. It is the only place on the island you simply must see. You can easily explore the downtown commercial area on foot.

Gustavia (and Shell Beach)

St. Barts is the only island in the Caribbean that has Sweden as part of its heritage. In this capital (which was named for the Swedish king Gustav) you'll find that the streets have both Swedish and French names. When you shop, you'll sing the praises of good King Gustav, who declared this town a duty-free port, a status it still holds today. Gustavia's beautiful harbor is often dotted with luxury yachts and sailboats tied to its berths. In the distance at the harbor's entrance, you might notice a cruise ship at anchor. The passengers are ferried ashore in dinghies. Don't be alarmed by this onslaught of tourists: The locals, determined not to be overrun by cruise passengers, limit the number of ships.

The town has two legs (on either side of the harbor) and the far side is called La Pointe. It has an old Swedish fort, the newly renovated Wall House Museum and Library, and scores of restaurants, but all the action is on the nearside. It has many restaurants, as well as the shops, historic buildings and an open-air market, Le Ti Marché, which is fun to explore.

There are very few buildings of historic interest left in town because of the damage wrought by a hurricane and then a fire in 1852. The oldest building in town is the Vieux Clocher, on Rue du Presbitaire. This bell tower, built in 1799, once sat adjacent to a church that no longer exists. The bell, which rang to mark special events, has been replaced by a clock.

The Mairie, now the town hall, was formerly called the Governor's House and used to be the home of Swedish governors. It retains the Swedish architectural style with its green and white façade and stone foundation. It's on Rue Auguste Nyman, which is the continuation of Rue de Roi Oscar II.

You'll want to spend some time at the open-air Le Ti Marché (market) that is near the Mairie. Open every day but Sunday, it is part arts and crafts market that sells locally made cosmetics and lotions usually found in upscale department stores stateside and part a fresh produce market. The produce is sold by ladies from Guadeloupe who fly in Tuesdays and return on Thursdays.
Two 19th-century churches, both of which which still hold services, are on the streets just above the harbor. The Catholic Church on Rue du Presbitaire (near the old clock tower) was built in 1822. It is similar to the one in Lorient, which was the island's first Catholic church. It has white-washed walls and a lovely garden. Note the bell tower that is both separate and higher than the church, allowing the chimes to be heard everywhere.



The Anglican Church is on Rue de Centenaire, a major street that joins both legs of the harbor and houses the post office. The church is starting to show its age and is quite weathered.

DID YOU KNOW?
The dark stones on the corners of the Anglican church were brought from St. Eustatius while the stones of the façade and steps were brought from France.

The Swedes built three defensive forts around the harbor. Fort Oscar still guards the entrance at La Pointe, although it is closed to the public. Fort Gustav, at the entrance to town (near Public Beach) may be visited but isn't too exciting. Fort Karl is only a memory.
The Municipal Museum & Library is often called The Wall House Museum because it is situated in an old Swedish warehouse of that name. The building is on Rue Schoelcher at the farthest point of La Pointe. The front is marked by cannons and Swedish and French flags. The inner building was badly damaged by the 1852 fire but, fortunately, the façade remains solid. Both the museum and library offer a journey back through time to discover the island's roots. There are texts, historical engravings and maps that trace the island from the times of Columbus to the Knights of Malta, Montbars the Exterminator and the Swedes. Documents, watercolors, and portraits abound. It's small but very interesting. Hours are Monday-Friday, 8:30 am to 12:30 pm and 2:30 pm to 6 pm. Saturdays it's open from 9 am to 11 am. Closed Sunday. Small fee.

Two interesting spots are beyond the 'downtown' area. The first is Anse de Grand Calet, better known as Shell Beach, which is just a five-minute walk from town. Dredging of the harbor in 1960 revealed the shells which continue to wash onto the shore here.
The other point of interest, at Public Beach on the way into town (look for the desalinization plant), is the old Swedish cemetery, which has some weathered stones dating from the 18th century. A stone memorial to Swedes who stayed on after the island was returned to France was placed here by Sweden's king when he visited in 1978.

Having exhausted the town's historical sites you have two choices - lunch or shopping. Look for lunch suggestions in the Dining chapter.

Saint Jean (Saint Jean Beach)

Saint Jean Beach, at the heart of the island, is the closest thing to 'bustling' that you'll find on St. Barts. There is always something going on in the tiny village, whether it is a plane taking off or landing or people shopping at the three in-town shopping centers, or families swimming, windsurfing or jogging along the island's most popular beach strip.

It's alw